By the time we had completed our epic voyage from India to Darwin, I was so ‘over’ headwind sailing that I wasn’t even sure whether I wanted to continue cruising on Stars End 2. In 40 years of sailing, it was the first time I had ever felt this way.

SE2 at sea
After our mandatory hotel quarantine in Darwin we flew back to Brisbane in early June. Covid-19 rules were no longer quite so stringent as in previous months, but most people we knew were still behaving responsibly by avoiding social gatherings or unnecessary outings. A number of our close friends with health issues, that placed them at more serious risk, wisely chose to self isolate, and so Frank and I found ourselves relishing quality family time staying at either of our two sons and their families homes, plus the occasional catchup with friends.

Time lapse photo is not easy with us all

Jenny with Mika & Max

Cousins together-Arni, Max & Wilder

Dress ups with Grandma
In July, Frank and I were devastated when cruising friends Del and Craig McEwan were lost after their catamaran ‘Ohana-Uli’ sank in a storm on route from Tanzania to the Seychelles and rescue attempts failed to save their lives. This shocking loss, too close to home, made us question our priorities and impacted our decision to bring the yacht back to Brisbane, where we could live on board and be closer to our family.

With Del & Craig in Goa, India
Despite all my previous doubts, as soon as Frank started discussing the dynamics of bringing SE2 home, I couldn’t begin to entertain the idea of him finding crew or sailing the long trip home without me. We’d been a team for so long and I knew I would worry as much about him if I wasn’t there than if I was with him having to endure more of those blasted headwinds we both dislike so much.

Leichhardt Lagoon
With time up our sleeve before the weather was more favourable to sail across the top of Northern Territory, we chose to fly to Cairns, pick up a rental campervan and spend 3 weeks driving across far north Queensland to Darwin in NT. It was the first time Frank and I had ever done something like this- a land adventure for a change, and we thoroughly enjoyed the experience.
The campervan was set up with bed, toilet, shower, fridge and cooking facilities. Longtime yachties, Frank and I were accustomed to being economical with water and power, so we were able to avoid going into caravan parks as much as possible ( to plug into power), preferring to find peaceful rest stops in bushland off to the side of the road or if we were lucky, near a waterhole or lagoon.


Termite mounds throughout the outback

Bitter Springs

Cobbald Gorge

Katherine Gorge

View from hill above Edith Falls

Leichhardt Lagoon at sunset



We drove almost 2,000 kms and arrived back to the marina at Darwin with a few days spare so we could use the van to dash around picking up boat requirements & provisions to prepare SE2 for her long journey back to Brisbane.
It was almost two weeks before the list of boat chores was complete and we could look for a decent weather window to depart.

Leaving Tipperary Marina through the lock
My friend Ann-Maree in Scarborough had messaged me to ask if she could put her sister in law Glenice and partner John in touch with Frank and I, since they were also leaving Darwin shortly on their boat to make the trip back down the east coast of Australia, and might appreciate some support as they hadn’t a great deal of sailing experience.
Frank and I were more than happy to get together but explained to Glenice and John when we met, that this trip would be a challenge for us too, punching into trade winds right across the Northern Territory, which was a completely new sailing area we’d never explored. It wouldn’t be until we reached below Cairns in Qld further into the cyclone season (November onwards) that we could hope for some north easterly winds to help us sail down the east coast of Australia.
We parted ways agreeing we’d probably see them along the way.
It was pure coincidence that our paths crossed again the first afternoon we both chose to set sail from Darwin.

Glenice and John
settled into a comfortable pattern of buddy sailing, both enjoying the company and support of sharing this adventure together.

Te r’ai Moana

We enjoyed plenty of sundowners on each other’s boats


SE2 tacking into the wind
There were lay days too when the conditions were too bad or we just needed to take a break.

Exploring Adelaide River

We still managed to catch a few fish





John trying his luck fishing at Raragala

Ragagala island

These croc marks were fresh!


This 4m croc was keen to stay near ‘Moana’ after he got fed on fish carcass

Lemon sharks often came to check us out on anchorage

We passed many sea snakes through the water

Over friendly visitor at Cuthbert Point

Selfies on a beach walk

Astell Island in the Wessels was stunning


We enjoyed many outings in John’s tinny

Passing through the infamous ‘Hole in the Wall’ in the Wessels

Cape Wilberforce the day before we left
Aware that the channel carries a bad reputation for standing waves due to the strong current that rips through, often at conflict with the winds, both Stars End 2 and T’erai Moana got absolutely hammered by up to 5 metre waves being thrown across our decks in confused cross swells. Thankfully, we passed through the channel within a couple of hours and the conditions steadily eased.
Arriving into the anchorage at Gove (Nhullanbuy it’s indigenous name), we recognised a number of boats we knew from Darwin, who like us, were here to wait patiently for the right weather window to cross the Gulf of Carpenteria.



Maccassan Beach Nr Gove

Daliwuy beach Nr Gove
Nhullanbuy was a busy port and had a large bauxite mine that was slowly being closed down but there were still quite a large number of fly in fly out workers in mining & government positions. Being so far off the beaten track ( Katherine was the nearest township over 600m away by dirt road), the town still offered most facilities and the indigenous communities here were protected from many of the trappings of larger cities. There were many cooperatives and indigenous projects running and a highlight was visiting Baku, the indigenous Art and Craft Centre which displayed some amazing works.

Local artist at Baku Arts Centre at Yirrkala
It was a wonderful break in Nhullanbuy, but as soon as we saw a weather window appear across the Gulf, on October 8th, we were part of an exodus of about 8 boats to take advantage of this opportunity. Over the 3 night passage, we became separated from our friends on Moana and used our daily VH radio skeds to keep track of one another. We were relieved to have an unusually calm trip, needing to motor sail the entire way due to such light winds, but our complacency was paid back in full when we got hit with an unexpectedly strong front that took us by surprise on our 3rd night when we were less than 10 miles from the shallow narrow passages of the western Endeavour Straits. We reefed down our full sails in the 25knot gusts and rather than tackle an unknown area in such rough conditions, we detoured 10 miles into the protection of the headland for a few hours rest. We continued on to Seisia next morning and over the next couple of days, several other boats sailed in, with lively tales of the strong winds that were the sting in the tail of an otherwise calm trip.

Seisia anchorage

SE2 anchored in Seisia
Next morning we left at daybreak to make the most of another good window of weather. The relentless south easterly trade winds were easing sufficiently to allow us to sail around the Cape York Peninsula, through the Albany Strait and start the long trek down the east coast of Australia.

Passing Cape York Peninsula

The coastline was very different now with impressive cliffs bordering vast stretches of white sandy beaches often fringed by headlands of rounded boulders resembling massive grey marbles. Promontories jutted out into the choppy waters for miles belying the treacherous submerged reefs lurking beneath their shallow depths. We still had to tack in a zig zag motion each day trying to make the most of the winds but also to wend our way between the many reefs, islands and commercial boats using the shipping channels.

Leaving Escape River at dawn
Our luck with milder conditions lasted less than a week after leaving Seisia before an impending strong front had us running for cover.
Both SE2 & Moana did an overnight run to reach the Flinders group of islands to the east of Princess Charlotte Bay.

Dinghy exploration in Flinders group
We enjoyed such a comfortable night here despite the winds, that we decided to stay on here for the blow.
Over the next 5 days we had winds of 25- 33knots, but we still enjoyed our enforced break very much. We swam most days on the beach at high tide ( having done our safety check for croc alert), and helped John celebrate his 65th birthday on Nov 3rd with drinks and dinner on board Moana.

(Note- John and Glenice saw our dilemma and John was already launching his dinghy when I radio’d to say we had got back safely! The outboard had a full service next day and is now working fine.)
Another highlight of our time at Flinders was the visit to the indigenous cave drawings.

Indigenous cave drawings

The strong winds picked up during the day, so by the time we motored back down the channel between the two islands, it was only John’s skills as an experienced surfer that prevented the dinghy broaching in the scary swells.
On Nov 4th, once the winds had dissipated/eased enough, we headed off from the Flinders group along with ‘Moana’ and friends Claudia and Craig on board ‘Gallivant’. The weather prediction apps showed that we only had a few days of milder winds before those persistent south easterly trade winds were set to blow in again. We pushed to reach Lizard Island within 2 days and as we approached the tall peaked island, we counted 16 boats already at anchor and were pleased to see we’d caught up with several of the ‘old crowd’ from Nhullanbuy.

Gathering of friends on the beach

We saw lots of turtles in the water




Thanks Glenice for the underwater pics

In our protective stinger suits at Lizard Island

Anchorage at Lizard Island
The winds finally abated after almost a week so on our last day, Frank used his scuba gear to give the keel a good clean from barnacles and weed growth. He only saw one friendly shark with its remora in tow.

The weather files showed there was only a couple of days break before yet another blow descended upon this area, so it wasn’t surprising that when we left the anchorage at 5am on Nov 12th, there were 7 boats also joining us.

Leaving Lizard Island at dawn

Another dawn departure next day at Hope Isl to make Port Douglas

Moored at the Port Douglas Yacht Club

Leaving Port Douglas at dawn- Moana too


Walking around Garden island with Glenice and John

Many thanks to Glenice for allowing me to use some of her photos. After 11 weeks of sharing unforgettable adventures together from Darwin, Te R’ai Moana may soon find a temporary new home in a marina along the north Qld coast. We will miss our sailing buddies very much but know that the memories of all those amazing, fun, scary and stressful times will never be forgotten and we will hopefully catch up again before too long. A strong friendship has been forged from sharing such a challenging journey together.
Hi Nikki, Frank… great story and pics….Ron
hi
great photos and great stories of your journey.
hope you are well ,every time i see the pictures of Dell and Craig i feel so sad and also worry for you .
Because of covid Ben is not sailing out of the country right now.so we have the chance to meet a lot.
hugs
Love you guys